Chalsa, Matelli, Samsing, Rocky Island & Suntalekhola
Chapramari, Jhalong, Bindu & Paren
Gorumara and the Murti River Bed
Day One: Kolkata to Raiganj
We ambled along from Kolkata around 6 AM in the morning. And after an uneventful 9 hours drive we reached WBTDC Raiganj where we halted for the night. Accommodation and food was okay. We really liked the Tea, Toasts and Omelette that we had ordered on reaching the place in the afternoon. Its very hot in May and with nothing really to do we rested in the afternoon. We had ordered the usual Rice, Dal, Alu Bhaja and Chicken for dinner. The food was stale and overpriced – both of which was unexpected.
Day Two: Raiganj to Chalsa. In & Around Chalsa
We woke up early the next day and after a cup of tea we were on the way driving through Raiganj – Dalkhola Bypass (under construction) and over to NH 31. We stopped for a breakfast of Puri, Subzi and Omelette at Kishanganj. Now, there are two ways to go through Chalsa:
· Route One: Islampur – Bagdogra – Sevoke – Chalsa
· Route Two: Islampur – Fulbari Bypass – Gajoldoba Canal Road – Chalsa
We chose the later just to try out the route. The road condition is good through out by there are a few railway crossing and the road gets narrow at certain places that impact the speed. The Fulbari bypass too had some on going construction due to which we were diverted through some narrow village roads, which impacted progress.
Nevertheless, it is said, better late than never and by 12 PM we had checked into Sinclairs Retreat, Dooars.
I had been to a couple of Sinclairs properties earlier and this too was spic and span. The resort located on a small hill overlooking the vast Dooars plain lands. Its spread over a huge area dotted with trees. There are cottages that are spread across in clusters. After a quick hot shower, we headed for lunch – fried rice and chilli chicken. Great food, good price!
After lunch we went on a drive towards the Matelli tea estates. As the car glided along the narrow, winding road the sun rays seem to have been dispersed through dark clouds and then there were droplets of rain on the wind shield. As the rain stopped the sun came out blazing and the afternoon became very hot. Our first stop was the huge Matelli tea estate.
These tea gardens of the Dooars are different from the ones of the Darjeeling hills – not only in taste and strength but also in their landscaping.These areas are not that hilly and there are gentle slopes over a flat land. Tall shady trees are spread over the acres of tea bushes and far beyond one can see the rising hills of Bhutan.
There were frequent stops along the way as the green of the tea bushes soothed the eyes. At a cross road we enquired about the way to Samsing and Suntalekhola. One of the locals said that the main road was closed, so we had to take an ‘under construction’ road. Well, the road didn’t exist at all, but the car climbed onto the boulders and rocks quite deftly and off we went. It was close to 4 in the evening and we saw school children returning. Singing and chatting – very nice. We also saw the WBFDC accommodation at Samsing. These low rising hills are deeply forested, and the evening sunrays could barely glint through the recesses of the trees. We asked a local about which way was Suntalekhola and he pointed us to go further ahead. But as we went ahead we saw a notice that outside cars weren’t allowed to go towards Suntalekhola. This was a surprise for us and the guys manning the gate wouldn’t allow us to proceed further.
Day Two – Continued
So, Suntalekhola came to a naught and we descended downhill towards Rocky Island. Spent some time at the bridge instead of going down to the river bed, took some photos and we resumed the return journey.
It was almost 6.30 in the evening when we reached our rooms. After refreshing up, we thought about what to have for snacks (Being Bengali, food is always high in the list of priorities for us!).
And ordered for Cheese Toasts and Tea.
Sometime later the rains started, and it poured heavily. We opened the curtains and saw the rain, feeling secure in the confines of the cottage, yet enjoying its feeble hammering sound. After a while, there was a door knock and when we opened the door, a smiling waiter arrived.
I have always felt the food at Sinclairs to be very tasty and rightly priced. And the cheese toasts and tea that arrived in the rains justified it again. We all gorged into the toasts with the tea.
The rains stopped, may be, a couple of hours later. After which we headed for dinner and had Rice, Dal, Bengali Style Chicken Curry and Salad – well-cooked home comforts!
Day Three: Jhalong, Bindu, Paren, Murti & Gorumara
The next day we woke up late and had breakfast after which we headed towards Jhalong.
As I have said before, the resort is located on a small hill, so we got down and took the left turn and were on towards NH-31. The NH-31 is a two lane highway in these parts right till Barobisha and passes through several forests – out of which the Chapramari forest (a forest adjacent to Gorumara national park) is one of them.
We took a left from the highway and were driving deeper when a couple of local fellows waved their hand. One of them were asking for a ‘lift’ if we were doing towards Jhalong. We said yes and asked them to get into our car. The forest got deeper and deeper, and after a railway level crossing the cloudy skies gave way to the rain and the cicadas and birds were screaming through the forest. The drive was surreal.
A few miles later we came across rubber plantations and then the road winded up a hill which was a mostly a drive in third gear.
One of the locals suddenly popped up a question, “Sir, do you want to go towards Bindu?” to which we said “Yes”.
So he said, “I can guide you on that road and if my relative is there at the hydel power station then I will be able to take you to the insides of the dam too”.
We were happy about it. And then at Jhalong one of them got down and we saw the Jaldhaka river bed from far above. After which we passed through a 12 km journey through narrow, forested and a potholed road towards Bindu. Presently, with overcast skies, the river thundering below and vacant village ‘haat’ it made us feel unique.
The local, then walked towards the Hydel Power Station gate and asked then security if he could bring us along to which the security guard nodded. So, we went inside the dam – nothing fancy though. But what was interesting was – we walked over to the other side of the dam and there was a Bhutan Police picket post – so, we were standing in Bhutan!
Day Three – Continued
While returning, our new friend suggested us to take a different route that he promised will be better. This route was through a place called Paren (covered by Golam-da in an earlier travelogue). True, the road was good but it was steeper than other route. Nevertheless, we dropped him near Jhalong and onwards we went, back again through the rubber plantations and Chapramari forests towards a restaurant on the NH 31. The 3-4 hours detour had left us hungry and we headed to a restaurant on the highway. Lunch was Jeera Rice, Dal Fry, Chicken and Fresh lime soda and was too heavy for us. So, felt a little drowsy.
But, then there were a few more places to visit. Accordingly we went to the Murti River bed that was dry in May and which, by June will be flooded with water when the monsoon picks up in full swing in the hills. The Murti area is again, dotted with tea gardens and a number of resorts. We spent sometime in the evening on the river bed, listening to the cool wind that was picking up some of the rain, which was falling somewhere towards the North. The WBFDC at Murti is once again next to the river bed and the best place to be if one wants to stay at Murti.
From Murti we went to Gorumara National Park. But without any prior safari booking and being late in the evening we coud not take any safari into the forest. But the drive from the Murti end to the Lataguri end through the depth of the forest was a thrilling drive. The sky remained cloudy and the evening sunrays weren’t present and through the deep jungle the sounds of the insects and animals gave a sinister feeling around. When we were returning from Lataguri, the rains had again started and it was so dark that it was difficult to differentiate twilight from the night.
That night at the resort we ordered dinner in the room. Roti and Goat Meat Curry. Again, great food and perfect taste.
Day Four: Chalsa to Cooch Behar
The next day we checked out after an early breakfast. That day we were going to Cooch Behar (my native place). We reached home around 12 in the afternoon and then had some rest, good food. Went to a few relatives’ place in the evening. Since we had to start early the next day, so went to sleep early.
Day Five: Cooch Behar to Kolkata
The Cooch Behar to Kolkata drive is a 700 kms journey through 2 lane and 4 lane highways and a lot of uncertainties. Hence we started at 4 AM in the morning. Mom had packed some sandwiches and a flask of tea. The initial hour of the drive was dark and then gradually it began to lighten up. But there was a heavy cloud cover all through out. We took the Fulbari bypass and were on towards Islampur when the first rays of sun became visible. Stopped by the road for the home made breakfast and tea.
