Indian Road Journal

Trip to Zuluk – Kupup Lake:Riding through snow fields – Part I

Winding Roads@ Zuluk  Continuing from the first blog on our Zuluk trip: http://sayakskitchen.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/trip-to-zuluk.html The stay at Mr. Gopal Pradhan’s place is like a homestay.There may not be elegant king sized beds,persian carpets in the room, but his smile, warmth and affection makes up for almost everything. He has single handedly tried to promote tourism around […]

Winding Roads@ Zuluk

 Continuing from the first blog on our Zuluk trip:
http://sayakskitchen.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/trip-to-zuluk.html

The stay at Mr. Gopal Pradhan’s place is like a homestay.There may not be elegant king sized beds,persian carpets in the room, but his smile, warmth and affection makes up for almost everything. He has single handedly tried to promote tourism around Zuluk and the eastern part of Sikkim – which shares its proximity with the Chinese border.

Contact Information:
Gopal Pradhan  +91 9609 860  0266
Suraj Pradhan(Gopal’s son) +91 787 288 3264

Zuluk – Bhool Bhulaiya

 Zuluk in itself does not have any fascinating scenaries or views of the Kanchendzonga range. Most tourists will be disappointed the first evening they land up in due to the heavy clouds and dull atmosphere all around.However, its the Old silk route that starts from Zuluk and used to a trade route to Lhasa through Gnathang-Kupup-Sherathang that is a delight for the nature lover.


Bhutan Beyond those hills



A word for foreign tourists – No permits are granted for non-India nationals due to sensitivity of the region. There is a strong military presence of the Black Cat Division of the Army and the army has been a guardian angel for the local for countless reasons. At Kupup, we were to discover later that the army men set up the local bazar.The locals also get to use the Army hospital incase of emergency etc.

Note the sharp hair pins

Now coming back to the day we experienced the Old Silk Route.  We woke up at 7 in the morning and loitered around in Zulukfor sometime.Refreshed ourselves and were ready by 8.30 for the trip. The driver, a young lad of 19, revved up his Sumo and we were gradually climbing up the narrow winding roads. The roads were good and as we climbed higher the snow line appeared. Zuluk,dull till a few moments ago, turned into a delight.


From Zuluk to Kupup



There after we were left struck by the beauty. The place has not been spoiled still and it retains the natural charm. We made a bried halt at Thambi view point, where the entire Kanchendonga(also pron. Kanchenjunga) range was visible. The altitude rises sharply from Zuluk (9000 ft) to Thambi(~12000 ft).Thereafter we visited the Original Baba Mandir (many stories about Baba Harbhajan Singh are available on the internet now and so I wont elaborate) where the Army was serving Ghee filled halwa with loads of dry fruits.We later visited the Kupup lake, which was totally snowed out. The entire range from Thambi view points has an average altitude of 13000 ft. Sometimes the cold and altitude makes the ears go dumb.

Snows removed by Army Personnel

Some small things:

  • There were several smaller lakes which was totally invisible because they had “merged” with the snow fields in the winter.

  • You dont need a refrigerator to store cold drinks, the temperature in the winter days ensure that cold drinks always remain cold.Similarly no need of an AC.

  • Salute the Indian Army for guarding our borders and ensuring that we have our sovereignity intact. We get a night of sleep due to their sleepless nights. I had an interview with a Army Medical crew where I questioned “its so cold out here, how can one fight the enemy when one has to fight the cold first?”. He replied “Yeh desh hamara ghar hain, iski raksha to karna padega na? (This country is our home, just like we defend our home, we need to defend our country too) – which speaks volumes of the commitment, dedication and selflessnes of our Armed forces.May be sometime later I will elaborate upon the hardship through which they manage.
The Gate says it all – The Best of The Best

  • Give a lift to someone needy if you have an extra seat in the car that you are travelling.We callit “humanity” in the city, but its a necessity in the remote places of Sikkim.
  • Visit Zuluk once in summer because the route from Zuluk to Tsomgo to Gangtok remains closed in winter.However, in summer you wont get the snows that you see in the photos.
We made it to Gangtok that day after lunch at Mr Pradhan’s. Blogging on that,coming soon!

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